The escalators up to the medieval part of Perugia (Tuscany) empty out into the bowels of Rocca Paolina, a 16th century fortress. While the vaulted ceilings and ghosts of former tenants are atmosphere enough, I was overwhelmed by a more recent addition (1980) by the artist Alberto Burri (1915 - 1995). Grande Nero, a giant metal monolith fills the cavernous space with a stark and imposing presence. On contemplation, I realized that the crescent shape at the top rotates, constantly changing the aspect of the sculpture. Burri mimics the shapes of the old arches with the movement of the circle making me think of the nature of the city it inhabits. Perugia's walls are a collage of construction: windows are blocked up, walls are added to, history is visible with different styles of stone and brick. The rotation speaks of this passage of time and the sculpture acts as a monument to the city's strength and endurance.
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